What comes to mind when you think of the Carnival? You probably think of New Orleans’ Mardi Gras or Brazil’s Carnival, right? But if you ask someone from Ajijic, they will tell you two main things – Sayacas and flour, lots and lots of flour.
The origins of the Sayacas has many versions. That it originated in Ajijic, that much is true. But what on Earth are Sayakas? They are, mostly men, dressed up in an exaggerated way as women wearing dresses with balloons for breasts and buttocks. They also dress as old bearded men, and both wear very distinctive home-made masks. They run around chasing kids and throwing flour to anyone that crosses their path. They are featured not only in the Carnival, but in many other traditional celebrations in town as well.
One version of the origin of the Sayaca is that in the olden days of Ajijic, there was an older woman who did not like the bandas – brass bands, playing anywhere near her house. But, whenever a band would be brave enough to pass by her house playing the ever so loud banda music, she would come out cussing and throw things at the band until they scattered, running away from her wrath. What she threw at them is not quite clear. Could’ve been water, or rocks, or perhaps flour? So, the character was created supposedly based on that woman who highly disliked banda music. The story has surely changed and details have been edited and most likely exaggerated throughout the years, but that is the main idea behind it.
The carnival in Ajijic is celebrated the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday with a parade. It features many fun and colorful floats, Charros ridding their beautiful horses, various bandas playing traditional music, and of course, the Sayakas running havoc. But, the main ingredient throughout the whole parade is: flour. You *will* get covered in flour, not only by the Sayakas, but also from folks participating in the parade. If you plan to attend the Ajijic Carnival parade, be prepared, the flour does not discriminate. Everyone gets their fair powdering in a sea of fun and laughter.
